I really appreciate this conversation! Super interesting opinions. As a Latina woman I definitely want to share my culture but not when non Latin companies are profiting without doing their due diligence. Culture is meant to be shared and fashion is a great way to express that.
totally! I think the main message I heard from people is that if you like something - it's ok to wear as long as you are supporting and buying from people of that culture :)
The Michelle She quote about aesthetic extraction versus cultural participation nails it. Most convsersations around this stuff get stuck on who can wear what, but the real line is whether theres actual cultural and economic credit flowing back to the source communities. I worked with a fashion startup in 2021 trying to navigate this exact tension, and the profit-extraction problem was way harder to address than the visibility question.
while i understand the sentiments from both sides, i find it unproductive to discourage others from partaking in foreign cultures and styles altogether. i see no problem so long as people are adequately informed of the piece's cultural origins. otherwise, the only culture left for all of us to share without guilt or shame is the hegemonic white culture, which is more problematic in my book.
Your anecdote of seeing the beauty in those brocade tablecloths as a kid sincerely touched my heart. ❤️
My unsolicited opinion is that wearers who acknowledge and appreciate the culture should feel free, and that wearers who don't can get fucked. I heap the the most derision on the brands and stores that obfuscate the true source.
As an aside, I'm sent by a line from one of the chinamaxxing articles you linked, where a 2nd gen Asian American believes congee is sacred and non-Asians should need permits to enter Chinese grocery stores lmao.
Thank you for sharing, and for opening my eyes to this trend I didn't realize was really happening. I felt some shifts lately in the west, some latent curiosity about China that kicked off when Tiktok was going to be banned and droves of people landed on Xiaohongshu for a stint, but I didn't see the persistence of it.
A very fair position. Perhaps respect for a culture, not just fashion, isn’t about drawing strict boundaries around who is allowed to participate, but about participating with curiosity, awareness, and a genuine interest in context and history.
A lot of comments already touch on this, but also adding my 2 cents as a Chinese American who can't shut up, I truly think the primary (but not only) problem with appropriation is capitalism. An analogy I find myself using a lot is this: It's totally fine for a white guy to make ramen for dinner at home, it is a totallyyyy different story for that same guy to open a ramen restaurant. And I think the difference is profit and competition.
If someone was not profiting off of a culture they are not a part of, and was not introducing competition against people from that culture, then i think it's fine. I really personally couldn't care less about the 'make sure you're wearing garments in only historically accurate contexts.' Modern Chinese people are obviously reinterpreting historical/traditional designs for a modern lens, and anyone can and should be able to appreciate beauty and/or practicality of garments. But capitalism is unfortunately a competition, so you don't get to spit on Chinese people for the 'China flu' then profit off the same people.
There's another factor of the 'appreciation to ownership' pipeline (not an official term, just something I made up AFAIK) that has convinced us liking something should naturally translate to wanting to Own it. Haven't quite articulated my thoughts on that one tho.
really amazing conversation! as someone who is Chinese, I think its totally okay for someone who is not Chinese to participate in the culture. The only part that slightly grinds my gears is when companies take advantage of a culture just because it's popular.
I appreciate this thoughtful piece - something I've thought about a lot as a Fil-Am woman. The recognition part is something I've noticed in my travels abroad, whereas back here in the States it's viewed with suspicion (if you wear something from a culture that doesn't match your identity exactly). The soft power toward China's influence is very interesting to observe.
Such a thoughtful piece! I really appreciate how you break down the history and naming here, especially the reminder that these garments already have context and meaning. As an Indian, it felt very familiar seeing something deeply rooted get flattened into a “trend” without credit. You honestly inspire me so much to write, and I love how you bring data into fashion in a way that adds clarity instead of flattening nuance. Loved how clearly you laid out the difference between appreciation and erasure.
Great article. And your personal touch points add a lot of depth to the questions. Re: qipaos I would recommend getting a non red one. Red has limited appropriate times you can wear it. Because people will think you’re celebrating Lunar New Year. And you can’t wear it as a guest to a Chinese wedding.
I really appreciate this conversation! Super interesting opinions. As a Latina woman I definitely want to share my culture but not when non Latin companies are profiting without doing their due diligence. Culture is meant to be shared and fashion is a great way to express that.
totally! I think the main message I heard from people is that if you like something - it's ok to wear as long as you are supporting and buying from people of that culture :)
I was all prepared to do the whole "it's actually called..." but then I read this and was pleasantly surprised.
The Michelle She quote about aesthetic extraction versus cultural participation nails it. Most convsersations around this stuff get stuck on who can wear what, but the real line is whether theres actual cultural and economic credit flowing back to the source communities. I worked with a fashion startup in 2021 trying to navigate this exact tension, and the profit-extraction problem was way harder to address than the visibility question.
while i understand the sentiments from both sides, i find it unproductive to discourage others from partaking in foreign cultures and styles altogether. i see no problem so long as people are adequately informed of the piece's cultural origins. otherwise, the only culture left for all of us to share without guilt or shame is the hegemonic white culture, which is more problematic in my book.
Your anecdote of seeing the beauty in those brocade tablecloths as a kid sincerely touched my heart. ❤️
My unsolicited opinion is that wearers who acknowledge and appreciate the culture should feel free, and that wearers who don't can get fucked. I heap the the most derision on the brands and stores that obfuscate the true source.
As an aside, I'm sent by a line from one of the chinamaxxing articles you linked, where a 2nd gen Asian American believes congee is sacred and non-Asians should need permits to enter Chinese grocery stores lmao.
Thank you for sharing, and for opening my eyes to this trend I didn't realize was really happening. I felt some shifts lately in the west, some latent curiosity about China that kicked off when Tiktok was going to be banned and droves of people landed on Xiaohongshu for a stint, but I didn't see the persistence of it.
A very fair position. Perhaps respect for a culture, not just fashion, isn’t about drawing strict boundaries around who is allowed to participate, but about participating with curiosity, awareness, and a genuine interest in context and history.
You could say the Tang jacket has shifted into the fashion Overton Window, so far removed from its origin.
A lot of comments already touch on this, but also adding my 2 cents as a Chinese American who can't shut up, I truly think the primary (but not only) problem with appropriation is capitalism. An analogy I find myself using a lot is this: It's totally fine for a white guy to make ramen for dinner at home, it is a totallyyyy different story for that same guy to open a ramen restaurant. And I think the difference is profit and competition.
If someone was not profiting off of a culture they are not a part of, and was not introducing competition against people from that culture, then i think it's fine. I really personally couldn't care less about the 'make sure you're wearing garments in only historically accurate contexts.' Modern Chinese people are obviously reinterpreting historical/traditional designs for a modern lens, and anyone can and should be able to appreciate beauty and/or practicality of garments. But capitalism is unfortunately a competition, so you don't get to spit on Chinese people for the 'China flu' then profit off the same people.
There's another factor of the 'appreciation to ownership' pipeline (not an official term, just something I made up AFAIK) that has convinced us liking something should naturally translate to wanting to Own it. Haven't quite articulated my thoughts on that one tho.
really amazing conversation! as someone who is Chinese, I think its totally okay for someone who is not Chinese to participate in the culture. The only part that slightly grinds my gears is when companies take advantage of a culture just because it's popular.
I appreciate this thoughtful piece - something I've thought about a lot as a Fil-Am woman. The recognition part is something I've noticed in my travels abroad, whereas back here in the States it's viewed with suspicion (if you wear something from a culture that doesn't match your identity exactly). The soft power toward China's influence is very interesting to observe.
Such a thoughtful piece! I really appreciate how you break down the history and naming here, especially the reminder that these garments already have context and meaning. As an Indian, it felt very familiar seeing something deeply rooted get flattened into a “trend” without credit. You honestly inspire me so much to write, and I love how you bring data into fashion in a way that adds clarity instead of flattening nuance. Loved how clearly you laid out the difference between appreciation and erasure.
Great article. And your personal touch points add a lot of depth to the questions. Re: qipaos I would recommend getting a non red one. Red has limited appropriate times you can wear it. Because people will think you’re celebrating Lunar New Year. And you can’t wear it as a guest to a Chinese wedding.